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Madder

Posted 10/13/2008 9:00pm by Eugene Wyatt.
 Beijing Rouge
 
Beijing Rouge
 
Beijing Rouge was dyed at a strength of 12% WOF (weight of fiber) meaning that when we dye 1000g (1kg or 2.2lb) of yarn (20 50g skeins) we use 120g (12% of 1000g) of madder dye extract. 
 
What surprised me was the right-on-redness of this madder dye lot; the color didn't tend toward orange (acidic bath) nor toward fuchsia (basic bath).  The water in which we dyed that day was true for red.  Colors from natural dyes are influenced by the pH and mineral content of the farm's well water; acidity & hardness change with the seasons and with the amount of rainfall.  Rainy season colors are different from dry season colors, as are winter colors different from summer colors using the same dyes and concentrations.  Colors from natural dyes are unique and exciting, you never know exactly what color of yarn you'll get until you pull it from the dye pot.
 
The root of the madder plant, rubia tinctorum, is used for dyeing.  Standard procedures for immersion dyeing are used with madder.  Alum as a mordant gives you the best chance for a true red. 
 
When using the powdered madder extract, first make a paste using a rubber spatula and a small amount of water as this will help put the madder into solution when the rest of the water is added and heated.  Madder is sensitive to heat and can discolor: never boil when dissolving it and keep it below 180 F in the dye bath.
 
Yarn in Beijing Rouge is available from the Naturally Dyed department of the Yarn Store.